![]() ![]() Sculpt Nouveau - Patinas and Metal Finishes I get some of my stuff from this company, and they’re not real expensive but some of this can be gotten on Amazon also or once you know what the chemicals are you can start mixing your own stuff. Specializing in patina and metal finishing products, sculpture maintenance, and metal protection. Sculpt Nouveau Sculpt Nouveau - Patinas and Metal Finishes I’ve used straight heat from my Benzomatic and oil dips, light 0000 sanding, more heat and oil cold water dip to oil, but that way is trial and error, but color can be gotten this way, just have to have a non contact IR heat gun and watch the temperatures, the 348 is some strange SS anyhow, especially when your holding the 348 with some high quality SS tweezers and got some nice color on them but the 348 well I did better with some of these other products and turned out really good. I bought a bunch of the 348’s during the last GB and some of the SingFires when I see them on sale because I love messing with the metals myself and have had some good luck actually, the first 4 or 5 only turned out so so, but regular people loved them, but sure not what I had in mind so kept at it. I would like to darken my BLF 348, does someone know how to blacken/darken stainless steel ? ![]() ![]() Other stuff I’ve used that is much faster, and doesn’t pit the metal is gun-bluing solution (Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue).įor even more aggressive results, Birchwood Casey’s Aluminum Black works great too. Just a quick note: If you use the salt and ammonia or salt and vinegar method, use Kosher/sea salt (no iodine).Īlso, the salt will pit the copper if left on for an extended period (say, more than an hour at a time per “session”). And yep, I replaced the stock O-rings with some stiffer green ones I had laying around. I also used maroon and grey ScotchBrite pads afterwards. The coating was pretty thin, and came off fairly quickly with acetone and a medium-soft nylon cleaning brush. So, I was able to work with the tail-cap, tube, heat-sink, and bezel separately (I carefully taped off the emitter side of the heat sink just in case). I did disassemble the tail switch, and removed the head bezel. Did you need to take the Astrolux apart before removing the coating? Was it hard to remove? ![]()
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